Driving the Amalfi Coast: Should You Rent a Car or Hire a Driver?
In short: You can drive the Amalfi Coast in a rental car, but for most visitors it is not worth it. From spring to October the coast road (SS163, Vietri sul Mare to Positano) has an odd–even licence plate rule from 10:00 to 18:00: on odd dates cars with a plate ending in an odd number cannot drive, on even dates those ending in an even number. Hotel guests are exempt only on check-in and check-out day, while taxis and licensed private drivers (NCC) are exempt every day. Add a narrow cliff road, buses on every bend and very little parking in Positano and Amalfi, and a private driver at a fixed price is usually the easier and often the cheaper choice for 2 or more people.
Last updated: October 2026 · Rules checked against the 2026 ANAS and municipal ordinances
Almost every week a traveller asks us the same question: should we rent a car in Naples and drive to Positano ourselves? We drive this road every day, so here is an honest answer: what the rules are, what the road is really like, what it costs, when renting a car makes sense and when it does not.
The odd–even plate rule on the Amalfi Coast road
To limit traffic, ANAS and the coast towns apply alternating licence plates (targhe alterne) on the Statale 163 “Amalfitana”, the 40 km road from Vietri sul Mare to Positano through Cetara, Maiori, Minori, Atrani, Amalfi, Conca dei Marini, Furore and Praiano. The rule applies from 10:00 to 18:00; outside those hours you can drive freely.
How it works: on an odd date (1st, 3rd, 5th…) cars whose plate ends in an odd number cannot drive; on an even date (2nd, 4th, 6th…) cars whose plate ends in an even number cannot drive.
| Period (2026) | When the rule applies | Hours |
|---|---|---|
| 30 March – 6 April (Easter) | Every day | 10:00–18:00 |
| 25 April – 2 May | Every day | 10:00–18:00 |
| June and July | Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays | 10:00–18:00 |
| 1 August – 30 September | Every day | 10:00–18:00 |
| October | Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays | 10:00–18:00 |
Who is exempt: residents of the coast towns, taxis and licensed private drivers (NCC), cars with a disabled badge and the holder on board, emergency vehicles, and motorbikes and scooters. Guests of hotels and B&Bs on the coast are exempt only on the day they arrive and the day they leave, with their booking confirmation.
The calendar is set every year by ANAS and the town councils and is usually similar from one season to the next. We update this page when the 2027 ordinances are published.
The Sorrento peninsula has its own rules: several towns (Sorrento, Sant’Agnello, Piano di Sorrento, Meta, Vico Equense) apply alternating plates on summer weekends with different hours, and the centre of Sorrento has a restricted traffic zone (ZTL). Driving into a ZTL without a permit means a fine sent to the rental company, which charges it to your card months later with an admin fee.
What the road is really like
- Narrow and winding. The SS163 is carved into the cliff, often just wide enough for two cars. On many bends a bus or a van coming the other way means one of you has to stop or reverse.
- Buses and traffic. SITA buses and tour coaches use the same road all day. In summer a 30 km stretch can take well over an hour.
- Parking. Positano and Amalfi have very few parking spaces. In summer the garages fill up by late morning and charge by the hour, so you may drive into town and have nowhere to stop.
- The driver misses the view. The person at the wheel spends the most beautiful road in Italy looking at the next bend, not at the sea.
Rental car vs private driver: the comparison
| Rental car | Private driver (NCC) | |
|---|---|---|
| Odd–even plate rule | Applies, except check-in and check-out day | Exempt every day |
| Parking in Positano and Amalfi | Scarce and paid by the hour | Not your problem: drop-off at the door or as close as the road allows |
| Luggage | You carry it from the car park | Loaded and unloaded by the driver |
| Fines and ZTL | Your risk, charged later by the rental company | None |
| Cost Naples → Positano | Rental + fuel + tolls + parking, for the whole stay | €200 per vehicle, up to 7 passengers, fixed in advance |
| Best for | Inland trips, off-season, staying outside the coast | Airport and station transfers, day tours, summer stays |
Most of our clients actually use a mix: a private transfer on arrival and departure, then ferries and walking between Positano, Amalfi and Capri, and one day with a driver to see the whole coast, Ravello or Pompeii without thinking about plates or parking.
When renting a car does make sense
- You travel between November and March, when the plate rule is not in force and parking is easier.
- You are staying inland or outside the coast (for example in the Cilento or around Naples) and plan several long day trips.
- You are a confident driver used to mountain roads, and you only need the car on days when your plate is allowed.
Even then, many travellers return the car in Naples or Salerno before heading to the coast and book a transfer for the last stretch.
How to get around without a car
Private transfer. A licensed driver meets you at Naples airport, Napoli Centrale or the port and drives you door to door: Naples to Positano, Amalfi, Ravello or Sorrento cost €200 per vehicle for up to 7 passengers (€280 in a Sprinter), and Rome to Positano costs €650. Want to see Pompeii on the way? A transfer with a 2-hour stop in Pompeii costs €320.
Day tour with a driver. Our Amalfi Coast tour covers Positano, Amalfi and Ravello in one day for €500 per vehicle, with stops wherever you like.
Chauffeur by the hour. For dinners, events or a relaxed day of shopping, book a driver at your disposal.
Ferries and buses. From spring to autumn ferries connect Salerno, Amalfi, Positano, Sorrento and Capri, and SITA buses run along the coast. They are cheap, but buses get very crowded in summer. Compare all the options in our guide private car vs train and ferry from Naples to Positano.
Skip the rental car
Fixed price per vehicle, flight tracking, exempt from the plate rule, free cancellation up to 48 hours before.
- Naples to Positano: €200 per vehicle
- Rome to Positano: €650 per vehicle
- Amalfi Coast day tour: €500 per vehicle
Driving the Amalfi Coast: frequently asked questions
Can tourists drive on the Amalfi Coast?
Yes, but from spring to October the coast road (SS163, Vietri sul Mare to Positano) has an odd-even licence plate rule from 10:00 to 18:00. On odd dates cars with a plate ending in an odd number cannot drive; on even dates those ending in an even number cannot. Outside those hours, and from November to March, there are no plate restrictions.
Does the odd-even plate rule apply to rental cars?
Yes. Rental cars follow the same rule as any other car. The only partial exemption is for guests of hotels and B&Bs on the coast, who can drive on the day they arrive and the day they leave with their booking confirmation.
When does the Amalfi Coast plate rule apply in 2026?
In 2026: every day from 30 March to 6 April and from 25 April to 2 May; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays in June and July; every day from 1 August to 30 September; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays in October. Always from 10:00 to 18:00.
Are private drivers and taxis exempt from the plate rule?
Yes. Taxis and licensed private drivers (NCC), like Positano Limo Service, are exempt and can drive the Amalfi Coast road every day at any time.
Is it hard to drive the Amalfi Coast road?
It is narrow and winding, with buses and coaches on many bends, and traffic is heavy in summer. Parking in Positano and Amalfi is scarce and paid by the hour. Confident drivers manage, but most visitors find a private driver, ferries or a day tour less stressful.
How much does a private driver from Naples to Positano cost?
With Positano Limo Service a private transfer from Naples airport, station or port to Positano, Amalfi, Ravello or Sorrento costs €200 per vehicle for up to 7 passengers (€280 in a Sprinter), fixed in advance. From Rome to Positano it costs €650.